The Coromandel Peninsula was one of the first areas we chose to explore after setting out in Curiosity, some 17 months ago. As is often the case, there were a few bits we didn’t get to, so instead of driving directly from the Waikato up to Auckland we detoured east.
Coordinates
Bay of Plenty transit
We left the Waikato heading east into the Bay of Plenty, making a stop at McLaren Falls where two streams combine into the Wairoa River—a mere trickle when the dam above isn’t releasing (first photo). Tauranga’s Historic Village was quiet (second photo), as was the CBD during re-modelling work. We watched the Matakana Island ferry on approach into Ōmokoroa Beach, where there was a freedom camp (third photo). We collected bounty from a relative’s feijoa tree—a “vitamin grenade” as S. put it, and according to others the scent of a NZ childhood (final photo).
Coromandel beaches
Whiritoa is a small settlement between Coromandel’s Whangamatā to the north and BOP’s Waihi Beach to the south. Almost deserted ahead of Easter, it had a “holiday homes” vibe that was only reinforced by the empty (yet gorgeous) beach you see in the following photos.
Whangamatā’s wharf (first photo) is the departure point for boat trips and is located just inside the sheltered harbour entrance (second photo). The trips run to several rocks and islands that lie offshore; Hauturu Island and Whenuakura Island are the most prominent, just off the main beach (third photo). It was good to see a healthy population of Charadrius obscurus | NZ dotterel | tūturiwhatu on the beach—despite the ever-present threat of free-roaming dogs (final photo).
The Whangamatā resident human population of 4,500 swells to five times that during peak holiday periods; traditional baches (first photo) and luxury second homes stand empty for most of the year. The Good Friday market at Island View Reserve was a quiet affair (second photo), but with a good donut stand; others chose to burn calories (third photo) instead of loading up on them! We enjoyed freedom camping here with a view into Whangamatā Harbour (final photo).
We said farewell to Whangamatā from the lookout on Te Karaka Point at end of Peninsula Road (first photo). At the seaward base of said peninsula is Onemana, an upmarket enclave with golden sands (second photo) and pristine facilities on its well-manicured (but eroding) foreshore. Small boats at the south end of the beach awaited launching into the gentle surf (third photo). Some 20km offshore, the Aldermen Islands—lava dome remnants—seemed to float on the horizon (final photo).
Opoutere Beach Recreation Reserve and Wharekawa Harbour Sandspit Wildlife Refuge are reached via a footbridge across a mangrove-lined estuary (first photo). Opoutere Beach isn’t suitable for swimming due to rips, but is popular with fisher-people (second photo) and those who like walking barefoot through squeaky silica-rich sand (third photo). Tropical-looking water at the harbour entrance felt decidedly sub-tropical, especially combined with an autumnal breeze (final photo).
Coromandel Forest Park
The Pinnacles dominate the skyline from the road into Puketui Valley (first photo). At the road’s end is Broken Hills in Coromandel Forest Park, presumably named for bluffs rising above the DOC camp (second photo). Below them, junior campers made a futile attempt to dam the Tairua River (third photo). Around 200 people once lived riverside here. The gold mines that brought them (final photo) had faded by 1914. The forest is still regenerating, having been heavily logged for kauri.
Collins Drive Loop begins with a 2km/ 1h climb from Broken Hills via Paton Stream to Hihi Trig/ Main Range Track to a lookout; the Pinnacles (first photo) and Pauanui with adjacent Shoe Island (second photo) are readily seen. A steep descent puts you at the west end of the 500m Collins Drive (third photo). Sections of this tunnel, part of Golden Hills Mine, have timber supports; a boardwalk guides you through otherwise bare rock—mind your head (final photo)!
The mine tunnel has glow-worms suspended from the ceiling, here seen using a red light (first photo). Near the east end a breeze caused these silken “fishing lines” to sway, forming light patterns (second photo). We returned via Water Race Track, much of which involves walking directly in the earthen channel that once provided water for mining operations; you’ll duck through several tunnels en route (third and final photos). The loop was 5km and took us a leisurely 2.5h.
With the Easter Monday dawn it is suddenly April, and that means our time travelling NZ in Curiosity is nearing an end. We need to return to Auckland, where we hope to find interested parties to crew our vanship going forward. Meanwhile she is still our home, and there are parts of Auckland we have yet to visit…
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