This stopover on our flight out of New Zealand (via Narita) would be our first visit to Seoul | 서울. After a first night in Incheon, we had several days in which to get a feel for this vibrant South East Asian capital while en route to begin a new chapter based in Europe.
Coordinates
An orientation walk
Sungnyemun Gate, built in 1398, was once the main southern gate in a wall encircling the Joseon dynasty’s capital of Hanyang from 1392–1910 (first photo). An elaborate restored wooden pavilion, which housed a time-keeping bell, sits atop the gate (second photo). The adjacent Namdaemun Market may cause sensory overload (third photo). Over the 500 plus years that Hanyangdoseong | Seoul City Wall has defended the city, it has incorporated various construction techniques and repairs (final photo).
The 236m tall “N Seoul Tower” was completed in 1971, sitting atop 270m Namsan Mountain—seen here as we ascend past excavated city wall at Hanyangdoseong Historic Site Museum (first photo). Some visitors come to leave colourful “love locks” (second photo), although their removal is imminent for safety reasons (perhaps they have become too heavy?). Most people however likely come for the sweeping city views e.g. peaking over the hills here is Bukhansan Mountain (third photo). We lingered at the base of the tower for the Namsan Traditional Cultural Performance, featuring music and swordplay (final photo).
Bukhansan National Park
Bukhansan National Park is situated to the north of Seoul and is reached via metro to Dobongsan Station; from there it’s then only 10min walk to the Dobong park entrance. We ascended the Dobong Valley, arriving at the Cheonchuksa Buddhist temple after a hot climb (first photo). The temple was established in 673; it’s had five major renovations, the first in 1398 and most recently in 1936 (second photo). Inside the temple are the wooden statues of the Shakyamuni Buddha Triad (third photo) and paintings of the Vairocana Buddha Triad (final photo).
Further up the valley at 448m we arrived at Madangbawi, a large semi-flat rock suited to picnicking (first photo). Feral cats roaming the mountain have learned that treats may be offered here (second photo). From the rock the path becomes more adventurous, although in places there are handrails and platforms to support the popular further ascent to Jaunbong Peak (third photo). At 740m it’s the tallest of three peaks on Dobongsan Mountain, but sadly cloud prevented us from getting good views from the summit (final photo).
Instead of returning by the same route, the park’s information office had suggested descent via the Podae Ridgeline track (first photo) before dropping into the Wondobong Valley. Accompanied by a helpful tax officer/ fellow hiker, this took us past Mangwolsa Buddhist temple, established in 639 (second and third photos). Our descent down the valley continued, at times following a stream (final photo). By the time we reached the Dobong entrance to Mangwolsa Station for a ride back into central Seoul, we’d walked 12km over five hours.
Gyeongbokgung Palace & surrounds
A ceremonial guard at the main Gwanghwamun Gate entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace (first photo). Originally built in 1395, the complex is almost all reconstruction; little survived Japanese occupations of 1592–98 and 1910–45 followed by the Korean War. Geunjeongjeon Hall (second photo) was rebuilt in 1867 and houses the main throne (third photo). Sajeongeon Hall (final photo) was where the Joseon kings held meetings/ took reports and its floor-only design likely ensured that state business was concluded quickly!
Gyeonghoeru, seen here with Mt Bugaksan behind (first photo), is a survivor—one of the only palace structures still standing by 1945. The two-story elevated pavilion served to host banquets and entertained foreign envoys. Royalty boated on the surrounding pond, to which Hahyangjeong Pavilion was added pond-side in 1959 (second photo). The Hamhwadang and Jipgyeongdang buildings probably received foreign envoys (third photo). Renting hanbok (traditional dress) gains the wearer free palace entry (final photo).
On grounds of the palace (but outside of paid entry) is the National Folk Museum of Korea. Here, we stepped inside Ochon House, a typical middle-income dwelling from 1848 with “ondol”—underfloor heating and built-in cooking pots (first photo). In nearby Bukchon Hanok Village we wandered through narrow streets lined with restored traditional “hanok” houses (second photo). Insadong-gil is a busy pedestrianised shopping street (third photo). Jogyesa, a Buddhist temple established in 1395, has an impressive canopy of lanterns hanging outside (final photo).
A little more Seoul
Cheonggyecheon Stream was buried beneath a highway for 25 years. Its restoration began in 2003, creating an 11km long walkway that is helping to rewild the city. The stream starts with an artificial waterfall near a shell-like sculpture at Cheonggye Plaza and a bridge with rainbow lights (first photo). At this end Seoul Outdoor Library provided books, lanterns and seats; stepping stones at various points allow walkers a change of side (second photo). Heron hunted in the stream at dusk (third photo); some of the fish we saw were rather large! We walked as far as Heunginjimun Gate, the eastern great gate in city wall (final photo).
The National Museum of Korea tells the story of the Korean Peninsula from Palaeolithic times through Gojoseon—the first state, Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897), Korean Empire (1897–1910), and Japanese Colonial Period (1910–45) to present day. Inside, a 10-story stone pagoda from 1348 comes from what is now North Korea (first photo). Many Buddha statues are displayed; this iron example from the 10th century was originally varnished and pasted with gold foil (second photo). Afterwards we took a wander in Myeongdong, a busy district known for shopping, fashion and street food (third and final photos).
And just like that, four days passed and we were on another plane. Frankfurt beckoned as a new place to live and explore, and as a stepping-off point for future travels in… wherever the fancy takes us!
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