Around the mountain

Having plunged deep into Taranaki via the Forgotten World Highway, the central position of the region’s imposing mountain within North Island’s western cape dictated a coastal circumnavigation. We began in the south—but not before a near disaster…

Coordinates

Shortly before reaching our intended camp, as we exited a passing lane on a straight section of road, we were startled by a loud bang that made the van shudder, followed by a whump-like noise that reduced in frequency as we slowed to an emergency stop. The driver-side rear inner tyre had suffered a blow-out at 90km/h. A mere 10min after having logged a call to AA for roadside assistance, the technician had joined us (having expected a wait, we’d started to brew coffee!). The hatched area (where two lanes merged into one) was safe enough for him to jack up the van and release the spare—albeit with some difficulty. Back on the road we contacted a tyre shop in the nearest bigger town (Whanganui) and ordered not one but three replacement tyres—ensuring Curiosity had a total of six new shoes in 2024 to carry her—and her replacement CREW, once found—safely on to new adventures.

South Taranaki Bight

We called at South Taranaki’s Waiinu Beach hoping to see ventifacts in the local dunes (first photo). A vague map on the foreshore was of little help and we saw none, but the side trip into Whanganui for tyres allowed for a museum visit (second photo). Ventifacts are rocks—from boulders to pebbles—that have been sand-blasted and polished by winds over aeons. Some resemble man-made stone tools, hence their popularity with collectors (they’re now protected by law). A short way north of Waiinu we freedom camped above the papa | mudstone cliffs at Waverley Beach, where caves are accessible at low tide (third and final photos).

At Waverley Beach we spoke with fellow campers who were en route to New Plymouth to see the premiere of The Mountain, in which their grandson was acting (a Pākehā boy). From the trailer it looked like one for our watchlist:

Pātea’s Mana Beach has about 57% iron content, making these North Island west coast ironsands the most iron-rich beaches in the world. Formed from eroded rocks on the slopes of Mt Taranaki, the sand is magnetic and, being black, becomes scalding to bare feet in summer sun. The SS Waitangi wrecked here in 1923 (first photo). Dalvanius Prime and Pātea Māori Club recorded the hit song Poi E here in 1984, after the town’s freezing works closed (second photo). The iconic 1933 Aotea waka features in the music video (third photo). The local museum is well curated and has several dioramas (final photo) and a collection of ventifacts.

If you haven’t seen it, here is the Poi E music video:

The remaining journey north along the South Taranaki coast on the Surf Highway can be summarised by “Surf Beach 3km” signs and rather bleak small towns (Hāwera, Opunake, etc.). We found little to stop for or photograph here.

New Plymouth

As we approached New Plymouth via the suburb of Ōakura, the beachfront homes were in stark contrast with the rural deprivation seen to the south:

We made a couple of visits into New Plymouth. There we saw the Wind Wand, by the Len Lye Foundation (first photo); a Taranaki take on the Holstee Manifesto (second photo); many murals on the side of decaying buildings (third photo); and the mirrored exterior of the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery/ Len Lye Centre, reflecting the White Hart Hotel opposite (final photo).

The Sunday Seaside Market (first photo) was perhaps a bit quieter than usual due to the coincident WOMAD music festival. We encountered dubious directions at the start/ end of the Coastal Walkway (second photo). Another Sunday Farmers Market at Huatoki Plaza (third photo) had great fresh bread and delicious donuts! Te Rewa Rewa Bridge featured a cloud-encompassed Mt Taranaki (final photo).

Lake Mangamahoe on the outskirts of New Plymouth is known for providing well-framed views of Mt Taranaki. The lake was created in 1932 to supply the city with water. Our first visit was on a dull morning at nine o’clock; seen from the picnic spot the summit was however clear (first photo). Twenty-four hours later, autumn snowfall had changed the mood from the lookout (second photo). That same evening the snow and cloud was gone: again, Mt Taranaki seen in different light from the picnic area (third photo) and lookout (final photo).

Egmont National Park

Lucys Gully in the Kaitake Range is accessed via a redwood grove (first photo). We combined the Waimoku Track out with the Sefton Ridge Track to return for a 4.4km/ 2h loop. During the steep climb we gained a view to the coast, beyond Sefton Ridge (second photo) and subsequently northward to New Plymouth and the Sugar Loaf Islands (final photo).

We re-entered the national park via the Pouakai Range. From Mangorei Road end we took Mangorei Track to Pouakai Hut then onto Pouakai Track to reach tarns that sometimes reflect Mt Taranaki. We saw a clear summit after overnight snow from the carpark (first photo). Most of the view was of a monotonous boardwalk (second photo), which went endlessly up. Pouakai Range was at last seen during our approach to the hut (third photo). The reward was in the first view from above the hut (final photo); to the right is The Dome, formed when lava bubbled up through a fracture in the maunga and quickly cooled.

The boardwalk continued for nearly all of the 6.3km/ 2h climb to the tarns. At ~1,230m elevation we had views to the North Taranaki Bight (first photo). Pouakai Tarns | Ruahumoko (named for their protective kaitiaki | guardian ancestor) were used by Māori tohunga | gifted for spiritual cleansing and scrying; when the breeze stilled, we also saw things in the water from our lunch spot (second and third photos)! However, as of our leaving, the summit refused to be free of cloud (final photo).

Tarn-side Polytrichum juniperinum | juniper haircap moss isn’t unique to these parts; it occupies every continent (first photo). Waxy-leaved Brachyglottis elaeagnifolia is however endemic—and only found on North Island (second photo). On the return walk we took in views over the sphagnum moss swamp of Ahukawakawa (third photo) and to the columnar lava cliffs on the mountain’s shoulder (final photo).

The walk to the tarns was around 13km/ 4.5h return, including a break for lunch.

North Taranaki Bight

At Tongapōrutu River mouth a lookout on the north bank (accessed via Pilot Road) reveals the Three Sisters and Elephant Rock, with White Cliffs behind (first photo). Despite these names, of four original 10 million year-old sandstone/ siltstone sea stacks, due to erosion only two remain (second photo) and the purported pachyderm is now trunkless (third photo). The formations can be seen at low tide via a 3km return beach walk from Clifton Road, on the south riverbank. We did see several “trunks”, although without recognisable animal bodies (final photo)!

Some of the caves on the coast near the Tongapōrutu River mouth contained Māori petroglyphs, but these have sadly been lost to erosion/ collapse. Several of the current sea caves in this dynamic environment can be transited (first photo). Bands of fine papa siltstone stood out from coarser sandstone layers (second and third photos). A large population of Physalia physalis/ Portuguese man o’ war/ bluebottle, a stinging cnidarian, had washed onto the beach (📷4).