Everything that has a beginning has an ending—and so it was with our road trip around South Island. Our circuitous route towards a Cook Strait crossing took in parts of North Canterbury, West Coast, Tasman, Nelson and Marlborough.
Coordinates
North Canterbury
From the bright yellow tree lupins lining the sand at The Pines Beach near Kaiapoi (first photo), we turned inland to the foothills of the Southern Alps in North Canterbury. We breakfasted on venison and whisky relish pie (second photo) at the Sheffield Pie Shop (albeit in Oxford); top quality! This was followed by a stop in Ashley Gorge on the Inland Scenic Route (third photo); the Waterfall Track has views over the plains, Banks Peninsula, Summerhill and Pegasus Bay (final photo).
We returned to Gore Bay near Cheviot; the small campsite was full up for the Canterbury Anniversary three-day weekend. Wild sweet peas added a splash of colour to the foreshore (first photo). It was good to see that the driftwood tepees were being maintained (second photo)! The collection of rocks tied to a fence—some with messages, seemed to have grown (third photo). It’s a good long beach for catching the sunrise and early morning walks (final photo).
B was keen to take another look at the geology in the south end of Gore Bay. GeoTrips say the cliffs here expose marine sediments of the Moturau Group (limestone, mudstone rich in calcium carbonate and greensand—dating from the Oligocene) and on top, Greta Formation conglomerates, laid down more recently in shallow oceans (first photo). Chunks have broken from the unstable cliffs and eroded to look somewhat like crocodile hide (remaining photos).
West Coast
The Waiau Uwha River, seen alongside Lewis Pass Road/ SH7 (first photo), before we edged out of North Canterbury to re-enter the West Coast. Near the pass summit, the Alpine Nature Loop Track is one of our favourite short walks—it’s magical in any weather (second photo). Gloioxanthomyces chromolimoneus grew in the sun trackside (third photo). We took a slightly sulphuric dip at up to 42°C in the geothermal pools at Maruia Hot Springs (final photo).
If the 4–5 day/ 67km St James Walkway from Lewis Pass seems too ambitious, try a 6h/ 17km out and back trek through Cannibal Gorge | Kopi-o-kai-tangata—so named for human remains found here indicating a Māori tribe feasted on another. The beech-clad path leads into the Spenser Mountains (first photo). There are several bridges (second photo) and creeks to cross, some with waterfalls (third photo). Cannibal Gorge Hut sits in a clearing (final photo).
On the St James Walkway, so small and nearly overlooked, we spotted the native carnivorous rosy sundew/ Drosera spatulata (first photo). This native lichen Sphaerophorus stereocauloides, was likely dislodged from the beech canopy (second photo). There were many examples of Pseudocyphellaria homoeophylla, with cup-like fruiting bodies (third photo). The white-flowering shore hebe/ Veronica elliptica is also native to NZ.
Still on the St James Walkway, other “smalls” were the truffle-like violet pouch fungus, Cortinarius porphyroideus (first photo); a close-up of the headdress of an inquisitive endemic South Island robin/ Petroica australis (second photo); the native NZ everlasting flower or “Hell’s bells”/ Anaphalioides bellidioides (third photo); and the snowdrop wood-sorrel/ Oxalis magellanica (final photo).
Tasman in transit
We transited through Tasman District, with an overnight stop in Murchison before continuing on towards Marlborough via SH63, alongside the Buller River (first photo) to St Arnaud. We made a morning tea stop in Kerr Bay, Nelson Lakes National Park (second photo). The endemic NZ longfin eels/ tuna/ Anguilla dieffenbachii were plentiful beneath the protection of the jetty (third photo). It would have be ideal weather to hike up to Parachute Rocks—a climb we enjoyed on our previous visit (final photo).
Marlborough
The Wairau River flows along the line of the Alpine Fault; it’s seen here at Kowhai Point (first photo). On the banks is the endemic NZ myrtle/ rōhutu/ Lophomyrtus obcordata, recognisable by its heart-shaped leaves (second photo). We didn’t spot the endangered grassy mat sedge/ Carex inopinata said to shelter here, but Digitalis purpurea was somewhat more conspicuous (third photo)! Wairau Valley is known for its vineyards (final photo).
The vineyards of Wairau Valley seemed endless (first photo), although most of the big-label cellar doors/ wine-and-dine options are located between Renwick and Blenheim. We returned to Rock Ferry, a small boutique-like estate offering good food (second photo). We burnt off some of it on Wairau Lagoons Walkway, where royal spoonbills roosted, pied stilts waded (third photo), and beaded samphire/ Salicornia quinqueflora liked wet ground (final photo).
Ward Beach on the eastern Marlborough coast hosts one of our favourite NZMCA park-over properties; there’s no camping in the adjacent reserve (first photo). The sway of NZ bull kelp/ Durvillaea antarctica with the sea swell is mesmerising (second photo). Springtime beach and shore decorations include yellow-horned poppies/ Glaucium flavum (third photo) and naturalised bunnytail grass/ Lagurus ovatus (final photo).
Again, there’s interesting geology here. In jest…
The titan’s nest contained at least six eggs, seen from the relative safety of a holed limestone wall (first photo). Once sure it was safe, closer inspection confirmed that the eggs were genuine (second photo). A few had been bonded with the underlying rock as protection from the tides (third photo). A hatchling had left nothing but this man’s shoe (final photo)!
How were Ward Beach boulders really formed?
Ward Beach boulders are dolomite concretions uplifted in 2016, formed over 65 million years ago.
🧭 Exploring
Shortly after fiery dawn seen from pitch at Wards Beach (first photo), the gentle sound of breaking surf was shattered by the reverberating thrum of track-forming bulldozers (second photo). They had been fired up to launch crayfishing boats that had just arrived in the bay by truck (third photo). They do say “An early bird catches the fish”, don’t they (final photo)?
At Chancet Rocks Reserve you can span the Cretaceous–Paleogene (K–Pg) boundary, marking a mass extinction. It’s a dark grey band of ~20cm limestone adjacent to 2cm of iridium-rich clay; this might be it (first photo)? The boundary is said to typically sit between light pink Cretaceous and light green Paleogene limestone—but seemingly not at this point, where those colours are directly adjacent (second photo)! It’s a geologic jumble in sore need of a “Made in Paleogene” mark! The animal that created large trace fossil burrows (paramoudra) “above” K–Pg is not known to science (third and final photos).
Witnessing the last march of the dinosaurs
It’s a thrilling idea: putting your hand on the point in the geologic record that marks the end of the age of dinosaurs. The search for the boundary may consume your attention. It may help to have someone in your party perform “seal spotter” duties, as these marine mammals now rule the rocks hereabouts—and can beach suddenly behind you (you don’t want to get too close). Furthermore, timing your visit for low tide will expose more limestone—including the large trace fossils, which you’ll want to get up close to.
Tips and tricks
Barewood Garden (“Six Stars” they say), located in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley, is open by private appointment ($20pp). Fifty years in the making, planting surrounds a 120 year-old cob cottage (first photo) and adjacent 100 year-old wooden homestead (second photo)—where Joe has lived and farmed all his life. The garden is Carolyn’s passion, sheltered from wind by a screen of mature trees (third photo), with a pond shaded by weeping willow (final photo).
Nelson and Māpua
Nelson Market offers street foods, produce and displays of artistic flare, such as the steampunk-inspired creations from the workshop of an “Old Coot” (first photo) and upcycled metal sculptures that Bruce has been forging for 12 years (second photo). In Māpua, Russel bends spoons into a stunning kōtare form (third photo) and the “Nut Job” ice cream donut at Hamish’s is a work of art in its own way (final photo).
It’s a wrap!
What better way to say farewell/ Ka kite anō to Te Wai Pounamu than with a mini adventure in Abel Tasman National Park? We rented a sea kayak from Mārahau into the park—a South Island highlight. We had previously enjoyed quiet winter walks on the famous track; it’s popular in peak season to paddle in and hike out. We entered the lagoon at Apple Tree Bay (first photo) before crossing the Astrolabe Roadstead to the northern end of Adele Island, to see seals on the rocks (second photo). We identified a “Lady in the Rock” at the island’s southern end (third photo), before returning via Fisherman Island (final photo).
Our paddle involved a 13km/ 3.5h loop, returning with a following sea:
Momorangi Bay seemed like just the spot for a spring clean of the van ahead of our ferry crossing:
Although we would be crossing to North Island without the van! The next road trip would involve a house, on an island…
Join us on future away missions
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