We returned to Central Otago for a third time, swapping the rich shades of autumn (seen here and here) for the vibrant colours of spring. We also got back to Queenstown and Arrowtown for some experiences we’d have otherwise missed, before making our way up the Lindis Valley on our gradual route north.
Coordinates
Central Otago
We returned to Roxburgh, revisiting a powered pitch on an orchard to wait out incoming cold and wet spring weather. Here’s the view from just up the hill (first photo) and of the township itself (second photo), nestled by the Clutha River (third photo). The yellow of gorse had given way to yellow flowers of broom/ Cytisus scoparius—naturalised to NZ in 1872 (final photo).
However, it’s not yellow that rules the landscape here, but shades of violet/ purple. We had come back for the “purple haze” of wild thyme/ Thymus vulgaris (first photo). On the surrounding hillsides there’s also naturalised viper’s bugloss/ Echium vulgare (second photo) and wild sage/ Salvia verbenaca (third photo), plus the native poroporo/ Solanum laciniatum (final photo).
After hiding inside from spring snow flurries (first photo) we drove to Butchers Gully near Alexandra. During a previous visit we’d learned about “purple haze” here, caused by widespread wild thyme in flower. Being late October, we were probably a little early—but thyme was blooming and the views (remaining photos) were quite different from those of our autumn visits.
The following photos show closer views of the wild (introduced) thyme at Butchers Gully. You don’t need to go anywhere in particular to see it. It’s so rampant that it lines the roadsides, hills and waterways from Roxburgh, through Alexandra, Clyde, Cromwell and beyond. The flowers during our slightly premature visit ranged in colour from cream, to pink and pale purple. As we expected, the haze would intensify.
After chores in the service town of Alexandra—and quality assuring yummy artisan ice cream from Nom Nom in Clyde—we found ourselves back in Cromwell. The compact Heritage Precinct continued to ooze its historic charm, even on a quiet day (first three photos). Our curiosity was drawn to a procession of tiny sail boats floating by, one of which strayed inshore (final photo). What was their story? Who launched them into the flow, how far upstream and with what goal?
The freedom camping area at Lowburn Harbour offers a perfectly acceptable view from pitch (first photo). The edge of Lake Dunstan here is decorated with tree lupin/ Lupinus arboreus (second photo), naturalised in 1889. Another North American immigrant growing with abandon here is the California poppy/ Eschscholzia californica (third photo). Across the road is Lowburn Inlet and Sugar Loaf, at 304m (final photo).
The evening light turned the flanks of the Dunstan Mountains golden, making for a nice reflection in the waters of Lake Dunstan:
The 45th parallel south transects Lowburn (also Oamaru, Queenstown and Patagonia—otherwise it’s ocean!). The 45th would mark halfway between equator and the South Pole—were Earth a perfect sphere. A 2.5km loop track climbs Sugar Loaf. Sights from the top include Lake Dunstan (first photo); a 45° marker (second photo); Lowburn Inlet with Cromwell beyond (third photo), and Lowburn Valley (final photo). Banded dotterel inhabit the terrace; poppies, lupins, wild sage, sweet brier and thyme were in bloom trackside.
We made a longer visit to Bannockburn Sluicings. Hydraulic sluicing here sought to uncover gold-bearing “pay dirt” at the bottom of the deep gravel layer. Hillsides were literally blasted away using water pressure. The transformed landscape was now cloaked in poppies and thyme (first three photos). A restored miners hut can be seen in Stewart Town, with mud mortar between the stones and the remains of a protective clay render (final photo).
The Sluicings loop walk overlooks several vineyards nestled along the flats beside the flooded Kawarau River—now part of Lake Dunstan and seen here with purple thyme (first photo) and red sorrel in the foreground (second photo). The original ground level of the Carrick (alluvial) Fan indicates just how much gravel was shifted (third photo). An example exploratory dig is seen in the final photo.
As for the “smalls”, at Lowburn the endemic banded dotterel/ Charadrius bicinctus has a prominent chestnut chest band in breeding plumage (first photo) and the blackwood tortoise beetle/ Dicranosterna semipunctata is unwanted Australian visitor (second photo). At Bannockburn Sluicings we saw the native McCann’s skink/ Oligosoma maccanni (third photo) and another American import, the California quail/ Callipepla californica (final photo).
Queenstown
Seemingly a view going against the grain, we’re not overly fond of busy Queenstown—especially with long-running roadworks making a tight centre even tighter. There are plenty of paid entertainments to consider e.g. the gondola to Bob’s Peak; simulated skydive at iFly. Alternatively—for those anticipating further van repair costs, Queenstown Hill Walkway is free (first photo). A “Basket of Dreams” commemorates the millennium, with views from below the summit (second photo). In our view the popular Fergburger is mostly hype (third photo), but the ice cream at Mrs Ferg is good (final photo)!
After our Fergburger lunch we decided on a light dinner, sitting in the sun at a picnic table in a lakeside campground in Frankton:
We can highly recommend cycling along Frankton Arm via Kelvin Peninsula Trail, a section of the 120km Queenstown Trails (in the Great Rides app). Immediately after crossing Kawarau Falls Bridge the trail delivers, with a stunning lakeside sequence of many small jetties, boats and secluded beaches (first three photos). The trail also passes below the landscaped gardens of wealthy homes lining Peninsula Road (final photo).
Part of the attraction of cycling out to the Kelvin Peninsula was to see the artworks installed on the Kelvin Heights Sculpture Trail. These are “Presence” in Corten steel by Mark Hill, 2015 (first photo); “Kelvin Peninsula Goats” in corrugated iron by Jeff Thomson, 2013 (one of three in second photo); “Thru Link to Peak” in schist and steel by Shane Woolridge, 2014 (third photo); and another seemingly untitled work by Mark Hill at Queenstown Golf Club (final photo).
Arrowtown
A school group were learning about panning for gold in the Arrow River as we revisited Arrowtown (first photo); “Māori Jack” set off a gold rush by finding it here in 1862. Arrowtown sprung up to support prospectors and retains a heritage vibe (second and third photos) that today attracts tourists in droves. Nearby Lake Hayes | Wai-whaka-ata (final photo) takes its misspelled English name from Donald Hay, the first European to see it.
Arrow River Bridges Trail is part of the Queenstown Trails. From our overnight park-over property we cycled to Edgar Suspension Bridge, the longest on the trail spanning 80m across the Arrow Gorge (first photo). Soon the Arrow River joins the Kawarau (second photo), which is crossed by SH6 a bit further downstream (third photo). This section ends at Kawarau Suspension Bridge, from which you can watch bungee jumpers (final photo).
Gibbston River Trail is likewise part of the Queenstown Trails cycling/ walking network. It winds for 8.7km past a good number of vineyards nestled in a microclimate between the Kawarau River and adjacent rugged mountains. You can simply admire the scenery (first photo), view wine in an unprocessed state as you ride by (second photo), or call into a cellar door/ estate (third photo) for a bite to eat and a tasting flight (final photo).
Lindis Valley
Lindis Pass Hotel (first photo) in Nine Mile Historic Reserve is below the 1226m Lindis Peak (second photo); the summit track was closed for lambing during our visit. Originally a temporary gold rush supplies store established in 1861, a permanent building arose by 1873. It was abandoned in 1951 and quickly fell into disrepair when a local farmer acquired its iron roof. Access is via Old Faithful Road, a dirt track off SH8 (third photo). An endemic boulder copper/ Lycaena boldenarum butterfly was the only patron present now (final photo).
Nine Mile Historic Reserve incorporates a DOC campsite, beside the hotel and Lindis River. The first of the season’s exotic lupins were in flower along the river’s banks in early November. However, Lindis Pass doesn’t get as much sun as Lake Tekapo, so perhaps a grander spectacle awaits us there if spring is further ahead to the north—unless we’re too early, yet again!?
Let’s cross the Lindis Pass into Canterbury then, and see to finding some more lupins!
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