There’s a song by TLC with the lyrics “Don’t go chasin’ waterfalls; Please stick to the rivers and the lakes that you’re used to.” There would be plenty of rivers, lakes and waterfalls in this log as we explored Coastal Clutha and The Catlins.
Coordinates
Coastal Clutha
The Taieri River is NZ’s fourth longest at 288km and marks Dunedin’s southern limit (first photo)—seen here in between sleet showers, as it went from blue sky to semi-darkness in minutes!. At Taieri Mouth we noted a curious pattern of erosion in the schist (second photo) and cape honey flower/ Melianthus major, naturalised from South Africa in 1878 (third photo). Most NZ towns have some sort of war memorial, but this has to be one of the more remote and simplest we’ve encountered—a wooden cross on the sand spit; offshore Moturata is a nature reserve (final photo).
Taieri River Track is 4.5km to the riverside picnic area—or 3km/ 1h to a seat with views (first photo). There are initially only a few glimpses of the river (second photo). As it was slippery we stopped at the seat, avoiding a steep descent (and ascent). From the seat enjoy the view upriver to Māori Leap, with ferocious lancewood/ Pseudopanax ferox in the foreground (third photo) and downriver towards the sea (final photo). Although dogs aren’t allowed on the track we met five large specimens off-lead. They must terrify wildlife—when not maiming or killing it.
Several lakes in the Clutha District are close to Dunedin. Lake Waihola is NZ’s most inland tidal freshwater lake, at 10km from the coast (first photo). Lake Mahinerangi (second photo) is a hydro lake created by damming of the Waipori River, which submerged the original Waipori mining township. We passed isolated hill stations grazing sheep and cattle (third photo) to reach Lawrence (final photo)—a township that grew to support prospectors at nearby Gabriels Gully.
Gabriels Gully was the site of NZ’s first major gold rush in 1861 (although Gabriel wasn’t the first to find gold here). We camped beside the tranquil Greys Dam (first and second photos), which “once provided hydraulic pressure to shift entire hillsides”. A rough and muddy 3.4km/ 75min trail intersects a disused water race (third photo) and leads to Otago Dam (final photo), which feeds Greys Dam.
At Gabriels Gully a loop walk shares stories of the tough life in the goldfield.
The mud, the cold and the price of flour are the three things most complained about.
P McMullin, 1861
Little remains however, including a safe (first photo), shaft (second photo) and some bits from a stamper battery (third photo). We felt there would be more merit in visiting a settlers museum if time is limited. Victoria Dam is across the road (final photo).
Kiwi English vs. English English
We’ve come to realise that in NZ English, “historic” is typically a synonym for “disused” or may mean something is totally absent. Similarly, “antique” can mean junk that isn’t necessarily of value to collectors.
Tips and tricks
The Catlins
The Catlins spans both the Otago and Southland provinces; for the Southland parts (Slope Point and Curio Bay) see our previous log here.
Nugget Point Lighthouse is an oft-visited landmark (first photo). Fur seals may be seen on the beaches below the cliffs; the white flower in the foreground of the second photo is a native clematis. Rocky islets (“nuggets”) with vertical striations march into the sea (third photo). There were plenty of endemic NZ red admiral/ Vanessa gonerilla butterflies about; known as kahukura or “red cloak” in Māori (final photo).
The Catlins offers many beaches. Roaring Bay has a hide for observing yellow-eyed penguins (first photo). The golden sands of Cannibal Bay (second photo) didn’t reveal any human remains, but rather those of a decomposing sea lion. A short track from the south end of that beach puts you on Surat Bay, with views to the Catlins Heads, river mouth and Triplets rocks (third photo). Purakaunui Bay features imposing cliffs and is the site of a remote/ rugged DOC campsite (final photo).
Purakaunui Bay was illuminated by sunset as we explored the beach, in between rain showers (first photo); the imposing 300m tall cliffs here are made of sandstone. The beach reveals curious patterns of erosion in the sandstone where exposed to the tides, giving the rock an almost organic quality. We imagined bone fragments from a titan (second photo), fossilised alien eggs (third photo) and even anemone-like structures (final photo).
Despite the advice “Don’t go chasin’ waterfalls…” that’s what you do in The Catlins. The 20m three-tiered cascades of Purakaunui Falls are among the most photographed sights in Otago (first and second photos). Only 10min up the road are the 10m Matai Falls (third photo), reached via a short track populated with tree fuchsia. Off the same path, just above those, are the Horseshoe Falls (final photo).
Owaka is named for the canoes (waka) that formerly plied local rivers (first photo). Gone a bit potty? Why not embrace it and collect a few teapots (second photo)! The Catlins Soap Company sells pre-loved books, displays bikes—and makes a little soap on the side (third photo). This steam-powered log hauler (final photo) supported a sawmill’s wooden bush tramway from the late 1940s to early 1960s and is one of several invitations around the township to visit the local museum.
Florence Hill Lookout affords superb views over Tautuku Bay (first photo); the peninsula has no road access and is almost amputated by the Tautuku River. Spouting Cave on Rainbow Island just offshore outperforms most blowholes we’ve visited (second photo). Tautuku Beach has been 100,000 years in the making (third photo); patterns in the fine quartz sand were as captivating as staring into a fire (final photo).
Tahakopa Bay showed us a tidal bore in river mouth (first photo). We took the Bay Walk/ Old Coach Road out to the beach and returned via the boggy Possumers Track: an 8km/ 2h loop. The Lost Gypsy Gallery at Papatowai was still closed for winter (second photo). We heard introduced frogs croaking at the ice age melt water-formed Lake Wilkie—really just a bog (third photo). The short Tautuku Estuary Boardwalk revealed no bird life, only the endemic jointed wire rush/ Apodasmia similis (final photo). The Cathedral Caves were unfortunately also shut for winter—generally May through mid-October in the Deep South.
Oh well, the waterfalls were open, so why not visit another? The 22m McLean Falls are on the Tautuku River within the Catlins Conservation Park, reached via a 2.1km walk from the car park at the end of a 3km gravel road. There are lower falls (first photo), the chute and the impressive upper falls (remaining photos).
The forecast wasn’t looking great, with wind, rain and cold incoming for The Catlins. It did look as if there could be a weather window for Milford Sound, however. We crossed the country in the hope this would transpire.
Join us on future away missions
Add our 📡 feed or enter your 📧 email for post notifications:
Curiosity Drive 