We left Golden Bay the same way we arrived: crossing the physical and temporal barrier that is Tākaka Hill. Kaiteriteri in Tasman Bay would become home for a week—making it the first place in which we’d stayed still for seven days in a row since beginning our NZ travels. We’d be seeing out the official end of winter with another week-long stay, this time at Mōkihinui on the West Coast. In the interim, we spent several enjoyable days exploring the more accessible parts of Nelson Lakes National Park.
Coordinates
Kaiteriteri and Motueka
Kaiteriteri Beach with its golden sands is shown in the first photo, looking towards Kākā Pah Point and Kākā Island. The second photo shows the beach from the lookout on Kākā Pah Point.
Plan A had been to overwinter here—although as noted, we didn’t feel the need to stop touring.
Overwinter options
If you live in your van you’ve two broad options: keep touring, or find a fully-serviced site somewhere nice to hole-up for the winter months. Early on we met a caravaner who had spent the previous winter on pitch in Kaiteriteri—and sung its praises. Longer stays at some commercial campsites may be rewarded with discounted weekly rates. For example, Kaiteriteri Recreation Reserve offered $NZ147 for two adults per week to all—not just for NZMCA members (that’s $21 per night). Also in Kaiteriteri, Bethany Park advertised an NZMCA-specific rate of $NZ115 for two adults per week (i.e. $16.43 per night). Gentle Annie Seaside Camping Ground (on the West Coast) offered the same deal as the latter, valid until end of August (the official end of winter). The caravaner we met also recommended a couple of North Island overwinter spots: Whakatāne and Lake Rotorua (Willow Haven Holiday Park).
Tips and tricks
From Kaiteriteri Beach it’s a short walk to the adjacent Breaker Bay, seen in the first photo looking towards Kākā Pah Point with its huge gumtrees, but from the other side. Beyond this, in the second photo, is Honeymoon Bay.
The area is well developed for cycling. We rode the third section (Kaiteriteri–Motueka) of Tasman’s Great Taste Trail: a 16km slice out of 188km total cycleway. We began in Kaiteriteri Mountain Bike Park, making a gradual climb then descent with views over Tapu Bay (first photo). On the coastal flats we crossed Riuwaka then Motueka River, passing orchards and vineyards (second photo). Bobbes (apple and marzipan) were our reward (third photo) from Motueka’s German-style bakery—S hadn’t seen these outside of Frankfurt! Soon we were back in the MTB park (final photo).
The short Kaiteriteri Track leads to a lookout over Kaiteriteri then continues onto Little Kaiteriteri Beach (first photo). Here we discovered a work-of-art resembling the medieval ksar of Aït Benhaddou, painstakingly reconstructed in sand (second photo); we were there just before the 2019 pandemic closed borders. From the far end of the beach pick up the track to Stephens Bay, which has elevated views over Kaiteriteri and Little Kaiteriteri beaches (third photo) before dropping into the more secluded Stephens Bay (final photo).
We thought we’d say haere ra (farewell) to Kaiteriteri by paddling a waka (canoe) to Split Apple Rock. We broke camp early for our trip with Waka Abel Tasman, but it didn’t start with the expected blessing/ karakia: it didn’t start at all. The operator was a no-show and when we phoned, said sorry but they had simply forgotten about us as the only booking! They offered to refund or rebook, and later followed up with further apologies.
Motueka has a Sunday morning market (first photo). Breakfast was an authentic German sausage with mustard in bread (second photo). Our park-up for the night was once again the freedom camp close to Moutere Inlet (third photo). Nearby was a yard selling tiny homes, so we went window shopping (final photo).
Nelson Lakes
It was a pleasant drive through the hop-growing Motueka Valley, then following Buller River (first photo) on the St Arnaud-Kawatiri Highway into Tasman’s Nelson Lakes National Park, which sits within the northernmost ranges of the Southern Alps. Lake Rotoiti is one of two larger lakes, carved out by glaciers during the last ice age. There’s a serviced DOC camp at Kerr Bay (remaining photos), close to the alpine village of St Arnaud.
St Arnaud is named for a (not especially saintly) French marshal and sits at the northern end of Lake Rotoiti (first photo). It serves as a gateway for visitors tramping or skiing (Rainbow Ski Area) in Nelson Lakes National Park. Modern homes line Glacier Terrace, which has views over the lake (second photo). Front yards in the village provide insights into the sense of humour of the 150 or so locals (third and final photos).
B got up to see in the frosty Dawn at Kerr Bay. The views were free range, cruelty free, certified organic, high fibre, low salt, gluten free, additive free, no added sugar, locally sourced, preservative free, vegan friendly, containing all-natural ingredients, plastic free, palm oil free, grass fed, keto friendly, plant based, home made, allergen free, egg free, soy free, dairy free, GMO free, all-natural goodness… served at -2C.
Having intended to do a different walk, we spontaneously joined in on a water taxi charter (first photo) to the southern end of Lake Rotoiti, passing the 40m high Whisky Falls. The taxi dropped us on the eastern shore before continuing to Coldwater Hut, opposite (second photo). The open flats in front of Lakehead Hut were formerly farmed (third photo). There’s no bridge here across Travers River (final photo), but there’s a swing bridge further upstream for those not keen on wading.
From Travers River we took the Lakehead Track back to camp. We found a nice lakeside spot for lunch, joining the black swans (first and second photos)—while sandflies meanwhile joined us 😬. We noted the distinctive fern kōwaowao/ Lecanopteris pustulata (third photo) and vivid moss Leptostomum macrocarpum (final photo). However, there was little track variation during the 12.4km/ 4h tramp, with roots and rocks underfoot holding our attention.
Parachute Rocks, seen from Lake Rotoiti sitting just above the tree line to the right in the first photo, are named for the adjacent parachute-shaped scree slope to their north. From Kerr Bay take Bellbird Walk, then Honeydew Walk, then the Loop Track, and finally St Arnaud Range Track. The latter begins a zig-zag up the mountain, as per this painting in the park’s Visitor Centre (second photo). You next see the parachute as you emerge at the 1400m tree line (third photo). There were some unusual ice structures up here (final photo).
Just a little further up, the views from Parachute Rocks were quite spectacular. Lake Rotoiti’s Kerr and West bays plus Mt Robert are readily seen (first photo). Further west, distant tall ranges demarcate the West Coast (second photo). Look north to the scree slope and SH63 towards Blenheim (third photo). This track goes on to the ridge line (final photo) for apparently awesome views, but it was too icy and we were a bit done in! We climbed 6km over 2.5h to gain 870m; it was a 1h 50m descent to reach coffee and biscuits back at camp.
During our climb to Parachute Rocks, while below the tree line we spied the violet potato fungus/ Gallacea scleroderma (first photo); woolly bird’s nest fungus/ Nidula niveotomentosa (second photo); yellow brain/ witch’s butter/ Tremella mesenterica (third photo); and yellow fairy cups/ Calycina citrina (final photo).
Lake Rotoroa (“long lake” in te reo Māori) is the largest lake in Nelson Lakes National Park. A water taxi runs from the jetty (first photo). There’s great views south down the lake to Maniniaro/ Angelus Peak (at 2,075m) in the Travers Range to the eastern side, and to lower Mt Misery (at 1,601m) to the right/ here without snow (second photo). On the western shore (third photo), Braeburn Walk is a 5km/ 1.5h walk through mixed beech/ podocarp forest, leading to a waterfall. Rotoroa is the source of Te Kauparenui/ Gowan River (final photo), which drains the lake into the Buller River.
Mōkihinui revisited
We decided on making a return to the West Coast at Mōkihinui, camping on the northern side of the river mouth at Gentle Annie. Here the pounding Tasman Sea agitates organic matter into a froth (first photo). We found an excellent wave-watching rock perch near the point (second photo). Of course there are sunsets to admire—while dodging the incoming surf (third photo). The main settlement is on the river’s south bank (final photo)—close as the crow flies, but some 7km via the closest bridge.
The whitebaiting season in NZ runs 1 September to 30 October and netting platforms at the Mōkihinui River mouth were being prepared (first photo) as we cycled to SH67, which crosses the river about 2.5km inland (second photo). At Mōkihinui the small settlement’s pub takes a clear position on food allergies and bespoke alternations to menu items (third photo)! The beach here largely hides the iron wreckage of the steamer SS Lawrence, which came to grief while exiting the river here in 1891 (final photo).
Gentle Annie Seaside Camping Ground in Mōkihinui has a relaxing, resort-style air: it felt like we’re on holiday—yet technically, we’d not left our batchmobile home. We enjoyed the white noise of breaking surf and the open-air showers (first photo). Plush loos and laundry facilities were welcome (second photo). There are communal areas both indoors—with fish pond and WiFi (third photo) and outdoors—with fire pit and pizza oven (final photo).
Cycling into Seddonville was an opportunity to check out the local housing market—and the village pub. Although not for sale, a number of properties were perhaps suitable as renovation projects (first to third photos)? We also came across a 1.1ha sunny section on the Mōkihinui River, asking for offers over $NZ200,000. All it would need is a $150,000 tiny home and you’d have yourself an off-grid home base, set in native bush (final photo).
🇩🇪 Das Neuseeland-Experiment: Was uns Menschen glücklich macht
Eine Leserin unseres Blogs meldete sich vor ein paar Tagen: es waren im deutschen Fernsehen bei ARD und 3sat innerhalb von wenigen Tagen viele Programme über Neuseeland zu sehen. Die Programme von 3Sat beschäftigen sich mit den Naturwundern Neuseelands (und wir haben sie noch nicht angeschaut). Die Sendung vom Ersten betrachtet die Lebensumstände verschiedener Neuseeländer und beleuchted mittels Interviews (von Immigranten bis zum Premierminister) und Teilnahme der Reporterin an verschiedenen Veranstaltungen (Grundschulbesuch, Jugendfreizeit, Kulturfestival, etc), wie Neuseeländer ihre Werte lernen und leben: Zufriedenheit (“die Leute schauen auf das, was sie haben, nicht auf was sie nicht haben”), Freundlichkeit, Verantwortungsbewusstsein, Wiederstandsfähigkeit und Respekt. Trotz der leicht rosaroten Brille ist es für uns interessant zu sehen, wie sich Neuseeland aus deutschem Blickwinkel darstellt. Auch, wenn die Realität vieler Neuseeländer anders aussieht, wie uns die Tageszeitung New Zealand Herald täglich informiert. Ein interessanter Bericht, schaut es Euch an.
🇬🇧 The New Zealand experiment: what makes us humans happy
One of our readers informed us that there have been several programmes about Aotearoa New Zealand on German television. The 3sat programmes concern the natural wonders (and we have not yet watched them). The programme from Das Erste looks into the lives of New Zealanders, trying to understand the perceived positive outlook on life through participation by the reporter in multiple activities (primary school visit, youth camp, cultural event etc.). It also explores the values expressed by interview partners ranging from immigrant to prime minister: contentedness (“People look at what they have, not at what they don’t have”); friendliness; responsibility; resilience; and respect. There is a touch of “rose tinted spectacles” as the reality for many New Zealanders is quite different (as the New Zealand Herald reminds us on a daily basis). It is nevertheless interesting to see NZ through a German lens and well worth 45 mins of your time.
“Wir schauen nach vorn, nicht zurück.”
“The world is ahead of us, not behind us.”
🤔 Curiosity
We decided to have a go using the pizza oven at Gentle Annie. It seemed simple enough:
- Collect driftwood from the beach using supplied barrow (first photo)
- Light a fire to pre-heat the brick oven base for 2h (second photo)
- Meanwhile, make dough and allow to rise, roll out and add toppings
- Push aside the embers, brush off the bricks, and insert pizza using paddle (third photo)
- Cook (rotating with paddle) for about 5 minutes then enjoy with a beverage of your choice (final photo)!
We learned (on our second attempt) that semolina applied to the paddle helps the otherwise-sticky pizza slide off into the oven. We also learned the importance of good brushing—not easy in the dark and with the heat—as our bases integrated a lot of ash. Although neither attempt arrived on our plates in the traditional pizza shape (they were more akin to calzone), they still tasted good!
With winter now at an official end, exploring new places in warmer spring weather beckoned. However, we’d still need to keep an eye out for fresh snow warnings on the alpine passes.
Join us on future away missions
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Curiosity Drive 