Years ago we had the privilege of watching humpback whales bubble-net feeding in Alaska’s Glacier Bay. It was a long way to travel, involving several days aboard a ship cruising the Inside Passage, and yet was totally worthwhile. We’d hoped to whale watch during previous visits to New Zealand, but weather/ itinerary hadn’t allowed it. This time we were determined to see sperm whales in the wild—before they’re gone. Kaikōura in North Canterbury has a good record for whale watching success.
Coordinates
Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway kicks off with views back to the snow-capped Seaward Kaikōura Range, which rises dramatically behind the coastal flats (first photo). People come here though for the fur seal colonies. Seals are often visible from the car park (second photo), or seen on the rocks/ beach/ grass below the scenic cliff top walk—such as from Point Keen Viewpoint (third photo) or overlooking Whalers Bay (final photo).
Continuing on the loop past those viewpoints, the walkway bypasses Atia Point (first photo) to make for South Bay. Walkers may need to beware of stock on the path: B was knocked off his feet by a head-butting young bull (we assume he felt threatened by our mere presence in a confined section of track). Off Scarborough Street, only earthworks remain at the former Ngā Niho pā, built in the 1820s by Ngāti Toa to defend against Ngāi Tahu enemies (second photo).
What were Māori pā used for?
Pā were fortified settlements or villages constructed by Māori for defensive purposes, as intertribal warfare was commonplace. They were typically situated on elevated land, such as hills or cliffs, which offered strategic advantages. Pā utilised a combination of natural and man-made fortifications; they often featured ditches, banks, and palisades made of wooden fences. Kāinga (dwellings) and the whare rūnanga (meeting house) were typically located centrally; agricultural plots, storage pits and other functional areas occupied the periphery. Pā were places for community gatherings, ceremonies, important meetings; within, elders shared knowledge and traditions with younger generations. Pā thus played a crucial role in recording oral histories and the preservation of Māori culture—they were not merely sites of resistance and resilience during conflict. You can view a digital reconstruction here, but it’s important to note that there were variations in the design, size, and function of pā across different regions and time periods—reflecting the diverse Māori tribal groups (iwi) and their unique circumstances.
🤔 Curiosity
Near the end of our 9km loop we stopped for kaimoana at the Seafood BBQ kiosk.
We hadn’t planned on a scenic flight, but a special off-season deal meant we would take one for the price of a boat trip alone. Thus, we got to see the Kaikōura Peninsula from above during an 85km/ 30min scenic flight up to ~1700m with Air Kaikōura (first photo). Mangamaunu is a popular surf beach to north (second photo). Mt. Fyffe (1602m) offers walkers making the 8h return climb views over the Kaikōura Plains and beyond (third photo). The braided Kowhai River begins on slopes of Manakau in the Seaward Kaikōuras (final photo). We saw seals, dolphin and whales from air.
Here is our “figure of eight” flight path, looping north to view the ranges and south to Spy Glass Point where we circled over marine mammals.
Following our morning flight, we’d scheduled an afternoon out with Whale Watch Kaikōura. The ocean offshore here is as deep as the Kaikōura mountains are tall. Currents cause upwelling of nutrient-rich waters that support the food chain (first photo, as seen from our earlier flight). As our boat crossed an undersea canyon wall, the depth rapidly fell away from 80 to 1000m. Sperm whales feed on fish and squid here throughout the year i.e. they’re not migratory (remaining photos).
Whales are located visually by detecting a plume of spray as they exhale (first photo), or by using a hydrophone to track the clicking noises they make while depth sounding. We found a fin whale (second photo) using the first method. Migrating humpbacks, pilot whales, orca and blue whales may be seen here seasonally. We saw albatross (third photo), pāngurunguru/ northern giant petrel (final photo), seals and dusky dolphin in between whale sightings.
What did we learn about sperm whales?
Sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus) are the largest of the toothed whales, reaching 18m in length. They have a distinctive body shape with a block-shaped head that can account for about a third of their overall length. These whales are deep-diving predators that primarily feed on giant squid, but they also consume various species of fish and cephalopods—eating around a 1,000kg of kaimoana per day. Sperm whales regularly dive to 1,000–2,000m, staying down for 45 minutes or more, before surfacing for about 10 minutes to re-oxygenate (this is why the boats need speed to get near them on the surface). A spermaceti organ (oil sac) within their heads is thought to aid buoyancy control, sound production and echolocation—possibly by way of varying the oil density. Sperm whales utilize echolocation for navigation (e.g. sounding off canyon walls), communication and locating prey; when they stop clicking (heard via the boat’s hydrophone) this indicates they are about to surface. Females and their calves live in pods migrating between warmer breeding/ calving areas and cooler feeding waters, while adult males are typically solitary; the individuals residing in the cold depths off Kaikōura are all male. Sperm whales are classified as vulnerable as they face threats such as entanglement in fishing gear, underwater noise pollution, habitat degradation, and the ongoing impact of historical commercial whaling.
🌲 Rewilding
Thanks to the sea crew for an enjoyable afternoon off the Kaikōura coast (first photo). We are grateful to have spotted several sperm whales (second photo); thanks also to the aero club planes for radioing them in! Note that both boats and planes operate under strict guidance that aims to minimise disturbing the whales. The boat tours have a remarkable 95% success rate; you’re offered an 80% refund if there are no whale sightings. Either way, enjoy views of the spectacular Kaikōura coast (third and final photos).
We made a second visit to the seal colonies on Kaikōura Peninsula—this time taking the beach track (instead of the clifftop walkway). Doing so meant a closer view of these marine mammals. You’re not supposed to get within 10m; some seals were lying across the track, so had to be carefully avoided. This set of photos was taken with a 600mm zoom lens from a respectful distance (seals can move fast and may bite if threatened, especially in defence of their pups).
The Hīnau Track is a 1km/ 25min loop walk on the lower slopes of Mt. Fyffe. The bush was dark (first photo) and we failed to positively identify hīnau: black dyes made from this tree’s berries were used by Māori for tattooing. The Kōwhai River (second photo) is accessible where Kaiterau Trail (for mountain bikes) begins.
Although our route led north, we made a detour on SH1 back south to pick up parts in Christchurch; this is a vulnerable (first photo) and scenic (second photo) stretch of road just south of Kaikōura.
Soon we would be revisiting the Top of the South.
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