We came to Christchurch for a motorhome show, but stayed a while to explore the city and the adjacent Port Hills and Banks Peninsula. Our time in this area was interspersed with a two week trip to Australia’s Gold Coast. While we were away B’s parents looked after Curiosity for us.
Coordinates
The show must go on
We attended the NZMCA Motorhome, Caravan and Leisure Show at Christchurch Arena, 20–21 May 2023. It was on a small scale after Caravan Salon in Düsseldorf or the Caravan, Camping and Motorhome Show in Birmingham (we had missed the COVI SuperShow in Auckland, which is NZ’s largest). At $10 for two nights “park and stay” overnighting there was good value. Three hours was enough to see all that was on show. NZ-made highlights included the Traillite Matakana 350 from $NZ286k (first and second photos) and the unusual romotow T8 from $NZ429k (third and final photos). In the absence of such a budget, we spent $15 on toilet chemicals! 😄
As the Sunday afternoon was thus free for other pursuits, S enjoyed a concert at Christchurch Town Hall. A programme named EMPEROR after the eponymous piano concerto by Beethoven also included a Schumann symphony (No. 2). The third piece Cento by a NZ contemporary composer was the most fun: a cento is traditionally a poem made from lines of other poems. Musically, it stitched together excerpts from more or less recognizable pieces, all in the original keys. The musicians seemed to have as much fun with it as the audience.
In the city centre
We began exploring Ōtautahi (“river mouth” in Māori)/ Christchurch with a visit to Lake Albert in Hagley Park, a green space created in 1855 (first photo). The Ōtākaro/ Avon River takes a winding course through the city centre (second photo). Christ Church Cathedral (built 1864–1904) was badly damaged during the Feb–Jun 2011 Canterbury earthquakes; reinstatement is due by end 2027 (third photo). A restored tram offers hop-on, hop-off tours (final photo).
The Christchurch Botanic Gardens grew from an English oak planted in 1863; they now occupy 21 hectares and include a loop of the Avon River. Features include an Edwardian-style cast iron Peacock Fountain (first photo); Diminish and Ascend, a receding perspective staircase in aluminium (second photo); punting on the Avon (third photo); and in the NZ Garden, flowering small-leaved kōwhai (Sophora microphylla; final photo).
Christchurch’s Riverside Market is a food hall providing for every indulgence. Popular on a weekday lunchtime, this trendy collection of indoor stalls selling produce and meals (first photo) spills into the surrounding streets (second photo). We tried this creation with raspberry and rose crème, raspberry gel, lychee mousse, raspberry sponge and almond cookie (third photo), followed by hot chocolate (final photo).
Oi Manawa/ Canterbury Earthquake National Memorial marks the 185 dead and 7,000 injured during the 22/02/11 quake—and wider societal ripples of trauma (first and second photos). Some 80% of the Christchurch CBD was damaged; much has now been renewed, such as The Terrace development (third photo). From afar in the UK we had learned the meaning of “liquefaction” and had seen the clever wheelbarrow explanation: this and more to see/ hear at Quake City (final photo).
On the city outskirts
From our pitch in the Christchurch outskirts we did a 20km loop walk via Waitākiri/ Bottle Lake Forest Park, a pine plantation containing the New Fairy Village (first photo) and numerous basket fungi—native to NZ and Australia (Ileodictyon cibarium; second photo). We walked out to Waimairi Beach, seen here looking towards Port Hills (third here) and returned via Ōruapaeroa/ Travis Wetland, a wildlife refuge for birds—including more than 30 native species (final photo).
New Brighton Pier brings fishing fans closer to the nutrient-rich currents within Christchurch’s Pegasus Bay (first photo). It was also a good vantage point for watching surfers waiting for the right waves (second photo). Te Karoro Karoro/ Southshore Spit Reserve hosts penguins and godwit; there are views across to Sumner and Redcliffs (third photo). Wild cineraria (Senecio elegans) here stood out from the otherwise green dune cover (final photo).
Clifton Beach (first photo) and Sumner Beach—perhaps Christchurch’s most popular (second photo), are separated by Tuawera/ Cave Rock (third and final photos). The rock is volcanic in origin: the eroded remains of a lava flow with gas pockets, now forming caves you can walk through. Atop is a pilot/ signal station and memorial to Joseph Day, a life-saving pilot who helped vessels crossing the Sumner bar between1867–1913. A bakery in Sumner offered European style treats for our lunch.
Port Hills
How were the Port Hills created?
The Port Hills are so-named because they separate Christchurch from it’s seaport in Lyttelton Harbour, created millions of years ago within a volcanic caldera. The hills are the eroded remains of the crater rim from the former Lyttelton volcano, starting at Godley Head and curving to the west and south.
🧭 Exploring
It’s a 4km walk from Taylors Mistake to WWII coastal defences at Godley Head. The beach here (first photo) is not Sumner Bar—as Taylor’s vessel running aground on it during night soon discovered (hence, the “mistake”). The path was lined by pig’s ear succulents and overflown by yellowhammer (second photo). Taylor Battery was accessible, seen here with a view to fenced-off Godley Battery (third photo); closed due to an asbestos clean-up. We could see all the way up the coast to the Kaikoura Ranges (final photo). The walk took us 2h return.
Purau Bay and Diamond Harbour are on Banks Peninsula, seen from the Port Hills above Lyttelton Harbour (first photo). Within the harbour sits Port of Lyttelton, with ocean access via Awaroa/ Godley Head to left and Te Piaka/ Adderley Head to the right (second photo). Lyttelton is the largest port in South Island (third and final photos) and the town is linked to the city by a 2km road underneath, as well as roads over the Port Hills.
Lyttelton “hoons” (typically young male drivers) did wheelies in the car park near our freedom camping spot in the wee hours. A shopkeeper told us it’s a frequent problem, as is car theft. Still, there was some heritage architecture (first three photos) to admire. Pie lovers will appreciate Hope River Pies (final photo. The hallmark of a good pie isn’t just the filling; it must use a different base and top pastry (we are reliably informed)!
From Lyttelton following the ancient caldera-now-harbour shore by road or walkway brings you to Cass Bay (first and second photo). Further on is Rāpaki Bay, seen here from Pony Point Reserve (third photo). Before turning from the Hills and up opposite shore, there are views to Ōtamahua/ Quail Island from Governers Bay (final photo).
Banks Peninsula
Banks Peninsula
Banks Peninsula is named after Sir Joseph Banks, a British botanist and naturalist who was a member of Cook’s first voyage to the Pacific in 1768–71, during which he collected and studied many plant and animal specimens. The peninsula lies immediately south of Christchurch city, jutting out some 30km into the South Pacific Ocean. Although the Port Hills are geologically part of Banks Peninsula, much of the area within those hills is politically and socially aligned to Christchurch. Lyttelton and its harbour are thus part of Banks Peninsula, which also incorporates a second large harbour to the southeast (Akaroa, similarly an old caldera) in addition to numerous smaller bays/ coves.
🧭 Exploring
Diamond Harbour seemed to lack a focal point and local amenities—aside from a small wharf (first photo). We stopped to photograph a splash of colour in the adjacent Purua Bay (second photo), but that was the end of the road for our large van. We had a pleasant surprise in finding Orton Bradley Park, a 653 hectare farm and forest with lots of trails. From a meander thru the park, we had views inland to Mount Bradley at 855m (third photo) and to Charteris Bay on Lyttelton Harbour (final photo).
Before leaving we took a morning walk in Orton Bradley Park. This view is from Big Rock, looking up the valley to Mount Bradley:
And this view is from the same Big Rock, but looking down the valley to into Lyttleton Harbour’s Charteris Bay and Quail Island, with the Port Hills behind. This place goes onto the revisit list!
Lake Forsyth (first photo) is near the settlement of Little River; it was formerly a source of eel for Ngāi Tahu. If the weather cooperates you can see Akaroa from Summit Road, which passes along the extinct crater rim (second photo). Almost a French colony, this former whaling base retains examples of heritage architecture (third photo). Recreational and commercial wharves provide access to the harbour for wildlife cruises, etc. (final photo) and independent shops and eateries cater to the needs of visitors and locals. La Boucherie du Village, situated in the former courthouse, provided excellent sausages.
Even on a chilly winter day Le Bons Bay gave off good vibes, offering a nice beach, sandy creek and aromatic pine forest walk (first photo). Okains Bay is not dissimilar, with a cave near the beach and the mussel-encrusted remains of a jetty (second photo). On the southern side we took in views to the Akaroa Harbour entrance from Wainui Main Road (third photo) and across the harbour to Akaroa township from the small settlement of Wainui (final photo).
What a difference a day makes. The bleakness gave way to sun, so Akaroa township and harbour could be seen as they should be seen.
B’s parents had a flight to catch, so we left for Christchurch to drop them off before continuing on to Aoraki/ Mount Cook.
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