The third island

Most people who know anything about New Zealand will have heard of North Island and South Island; fewer will know much about the third largest island—an island with three names. As Stewart Island, it takes its name from William Stewart, who served as first mate on the sealer Pegasus that charted part of the island in 1809. As Rakiura, Māori for “glowing skies”, it references the aurora australis (southern lights), which are sometimes visible from the island. In contemporary Māori storytelling, it is also known as Te Punga-a-Māui (Māui’s anchor; South Island being the waka/ canoe). We left Curiosity in Bluff for three nights on the third island with three names.

Coordinates

Off-grid lodgings

Deep Bay on Rakiura became our home for a few nights (first photo). Our off-grid cabin (second photo) was reached via a muddy bush track at end of the beach. We had solar-powered lights, a diesel heater, two bunks, a desk, a TV/DVD, gas hob, fridge, sink, rainwater and—somewhat oddly, a dishwasher (third photo). The hot shower was open-air and the outside (flush) toilet had neither lighting nor window, so use required a head torch—or an open door (fourth photo)! Outside seating was damp and tired (final photo). More comfortable lodging on the island is expensive:

Oban township

Oban township within Halfmoon Bay has mainly sealed roads (contributing to the 28km of road on the island), the essential amenities and is home to about 400 people. The only settlement on the island, it’s linked to “the other side” (as mainland NZ is locally known) by air or a 40km/ 1h passenger ferry trip across the notorious Foveaux Strait. Fishing and more latterly tourism are key to life here—as is tolerance of frequent rain!

Undoubtably, island life also requires a sense of humour—as in these examples. Posted in a waterfront shed, the Ultimate Answer isn’t 42 but rather 13,477, according to numerate locals (first photo). A local café (run by a German expat) offered coffee with a copy of The Island of Stewart Constitution for study (second photo):

Paradise shelducks made it here too and they always come in pairs. Females have white heads, males black heads; this pair seemed to be in charge of Oban’s waterfront:

Adjacent bays and beaches

Watercress Beach at Thule Bay (first photo) is a short off-road walk from Oban via the interconnecting Fuchsia Walk, Traill Park and Raroa Walk. You can rent a kayak here to explore Thule Bay (second photo) and beyond. Golden Bay (third photo) also offers sea kayaking options and hosts the wharf for the Ulva Island ferry (just a 10 minute road walk from Oban). Access to Ringaringa Beach (final photo) from the south end is closed due to cliff erosion:

Lonnekers Beach in Little Bay made an impression in the afternoon sun, with distinctive eucalyptus planting behind golden sands fronting a clear-water anchorage:

Bathing Beach is a short walk from Oban’s waterfront, here viewed from path around Church Hill (first photo). The beach continues beyond a rocky outcrop—except at high tide. Mill Creek empties into this part of the beach (second photo); it’s named for the water-powered sawmill here, est. 1874—but the business sank, like this boat in the creek (third photo). A beached boat at Leask Bay appeared little more seaworthy (final photo):

We were entertained by oystercatcher antics at Bathing Beach. They did an Abbey Road cover impression (first photo), stood on one leg while keeping a careful watch (second photo), and then hopped away as we came closer (final photo):

Ulva Island

Ulva Island is the largest of a group of islands in Paterson Inlet. Access is by guided tour boat, scheduled ferry ($25 return), water taxi or kayak. The ferry departs from the Golden Bay wharf (first photo); we loved the leaf boarding pass (second photo) and issued blanket:

We spent some of our crossing adrift, after the ferry’s engine overheated midway (see below map). The skipper’s calm and good humour helped until our transfer to a water taxi (a mate who was called in on his day off!):

Adrift between Golden Bay and Flagstaff Point

Most of Ulva is national park, managed as a pest-free sanctuary. There are three self-guided walks ranging from 30–50 minutes duration; these introduce visitors to history, conservation and nature. We took them all. Bush tracks led us first to Sydney Cove (first photo) then to Boulder Beach (second photo):

At the far end of Boulder Beach an Auckland sea lion (Phocarctos hookeri) and her pup frolicked in the shallows (taken with a 600mm optical lens and 1.5x digital zoom; we kept a respectful/ safe distance):

Next came West End Beach, where weka tried for a share of our lunch:

Ulva Island Charitable Trust offer a $2 booklet supporting the walks and indicating plants and birds to watch for. We saw tīeke/ South Island saddleback (first photo); mohua/ yellowhead (second photo); toutouwai/ Stewart Island robin (third photo); kawau/ great cormorant (final photo); tomtit; tūī; kākā; Stewart Island weka; kākāriki/ NZ parakeet; tōrea/ oystercatcher; pīwakawaka/ fantail; and tītitipounamu/ rifleman:

Having been towed back to Golden Bay, the ferry had been speedily fixed (an airlock in the cooling system), so it was able to pick us up from Ulva’s Post Office Bay 3.5h later:

We didn’t see kiwi, nor penguins—not at the right place, at the right time.

Half-day hikes

Rakiura is 75km long and 40km at its widest point. Most (85%) of the island is remote national park, but there are more proximal tracks within the total of 280 km of walking options. We headed west, passing Thule Bay (first and second photos), Vaila Voe Bay with its Faith, Hope and Charity islets (third photo), to Ryans Creek mouth (final photo), where saw a kotare/ sacred kingfisher. We then turned inland, taking a stint on the Rakiura Track (Great Walk: 32km/ 3 days) to Main Road car park, then into Oban:

Here’s the track of the 10km/ 4 hour route from Deep Bay to Oban:

Our final walk from Oban (in steady rain) was an easy 9km/ 2.5h circuit on well-formed track and sealed road. The route took in Butterfield Beach, with a community shelter/ BBQ area (first photo), Bragg Bay (second photo), Sarah Cove (third photo), and Dead Man Beach—notably free from pirates (final photo)! There were good views from Horseshoe Point—albeit in heavy rain—before the track turned in towards Horseshoe Bay and then it was a case of following the road back into Oban. We recommend this route in any weather: