In this log we’re running out of West Coast—at least of the parts of it that are accessible by motorhome. Beaches, lakes, creeks, towns both historic and present-day, and a series of waterfalls marked our final few days of exploring what the West Coast has to offer when it isn’t merely a transit corridor to somewhere else.
Coordinates
Bruce Bay
As you head south from Glacier Country Bruce Bay is inevitable: the state highway effectively forms a promenade to it. Unusually, a sump has formed in the middle of the beach (second photo) where water from the meandering creek above and behind (third photo) it takes a shortcut, filtering through the sandbank to the sea. Beach, creek, sand wall, beach, dirt/ creepers, scrub then tall trees together create a visual “layer cake” effect from the shoreline (final photo):
We spotted a pod of Hector’s dolphin feeding inshore before leaving.
Lake Paringa
Further inland, the U-shaped arms of Lake Paringa are separated by a 300 million year-old greywacke rock, Fish Hill (to the right in the first photo). As Paringa Glacier pushed on this hard rock around 14–20,000 years ago, its resistance meant that ice pressure gouged out the lake at its base and flowed around it, creating the “U” arms. Not being fed by rivers carrying sediment from the Alps, this lake is less prone to infilling, so has retained its depth (and clarity):
The onset of evening meant a visitation from the local kea delegation—as well as a further opportunity for photography during golden hour/ dusk:
Following a cold night, the lake was shrouded in morning mists:
Otumotu Point
Monro Beach Walk is 3km each way, running between a car park at Lake Moeraki and Otumotu Point, a nesting site for tawaki (Fiordland crested penguins):
Fiordland crested penguins
Who does not like a penguin? Those observable on West Coast or Fiordland beaches are the particularly cute-looking tawaki, or fiordland crested penguins (Eudyptes pachyrhynchus)—sporting their characteristic yellow eyebrows. With an estimated 2,500 to 3,000 breeding pairs in the wild, they are another of New Zealand’s rare birds. Nesting season is between July and December; the best chance of seeing them is July through November. As they only raise one chick and have their nests under overhangs, in caves or dense vegetation by the beach, it’s easy to understand how the egg and nestlings can be easy prey. But even adults are not immune from predators, dogs and harassment: they are highly-strung and react badly to their environment being invaded by nosy Instagrammers. Even worse, a single dog can wipe out an entire colony. Adults are at particular risk when they come up the beaches for two weeks between January and March to moult (so are occasionally seen then), and are thus unable to escape or even feed. The eat small fish, krill, octopus and squid, live 15–20 years, and weigh up to 4kg.
🌲 Rewilding
We didn’t see the birds, but did meet an odd fellow in the bush (first photo). The beach was worthwhile on its own: a geological hodgepodge of shapes, colours, and textures:
Here are a few more pictures of the interesting rocks:
The track runs more-or-less parallel to the Moeraki River:
Ship Creek
At Ship Creek (first photo) the Swamp Forest Walk was closed; we took the Dune Lake Walk instead. This coastal lake is fringed with kuta (second photo), a rush used by Māori for weaving (see blue boxout). Taking the beach back (third photo), we were once again lucky to see world’s smallest (Hector’s) dolphin—for the third time on this coast (75% of the 7,000 remaining population live off the West Coast):
Kuta: a rush for weaving
Kuta is the Māori name for the bamboo spike sedge (Eleocharis sphacelata, die Sumpfbinse). Kuta is found on the fringes of fresh water lakes: it can reach up to 1.5m above the water level, with as much again below. The stem is hollow and allows for oxygen to reach the rhizomes (roots) as well as for waste gases to be pumped up again into the atmosphere. It thus aerates, stabilises sediment and purifies the water of the lake. Over long periods of time kuta will infill the lake and eventually make room for new forest growth. Māori have traditionally used kuta for weaving: it is strong, soft and warm to wear. Sleeping mats made of kuta were considered the best, but rain capes, hats and bags (kete) were also made. The kuta is harvested at a specific time and the part of the stem below the surface is the best for weaving. It needs to be flattened and dried before use. In the meeting houses of local marae the floor mats are still made from kuta. If you are interested in further information about the plants used for weaving in Aotearoa NZ, check out Manaaki Whenua/ Landcare Research, which has a section on weaving plants.
🤔 Curiosity
Haast
Further south, Haast is a service town that offered us a (basic) grocery shopping and dump station opportunity. Haast Beach rivals any in the Far North:
Jackson Bay
Jackson Bay/ Okahu saw 400 immigrants from various countries arrive to establish a “dreamtown” aiming to exploit resources here in 1875; it lasted only 3 years due to difficult conditions. The foreshore contains the even older grave of Claude Ollivier, who died aboard the schooner “Ada” anchored in the bay in 1862 (second photo). The short Wharekai Te Kou walk across Jackson Head leads to an ocean beach featuring interesting concrete-like rocks (final two photos):
Haast Pass
South Westland’s Dismal Creek, Mt. Awful and Mt. Dreadful were perhaps named in weather like the weather we had as we left the West Coast, via Haast Pass/ Tioripatea. En route there are short walks to three waterfalls. Roaring Billy Falls (30m) are visible across the gravel bed of Haast River (first photo). Thunder Creek Falls come next at 28m (second photo). After crossing Gates of Haast bridge (third photo), there’s Fantail Falls at 23m (final photo):
West Coast, exit stage left. Hello, Otago.
Join us on future away missions
Add our 📡 feed or enter your 📧 email for post notifications:
Curiosity Drive 