Curiosity was due her first Certificate of Fitness under our stewardship just before Christmas. On the way to our assessment we experienced a wheel speed sensor failure which, in combination with a few other mechanical issues, gave rise to an early Christmas present from Mercedes in the form of a repair bill. Luckily we had returned to home base to spend the festive period with family and friends, so having to vacate our home for several days wasn’t too problematic. Repairs were complete just in time to greet friends arriving from Australia, who were joining us and family for Christmas in the tail of the fish.
Coordinates
So why the reference to a tail in the log title? Here is the fishy tale:
Māui and bros go fishing
In Māori legend the pan-Polynesian demigod Māui goes fishing with his brothers. Using a magic hook (or a jawbone covered in blood), he hauls up a great fish, Te Ika-a-Māui. The brothers then hacked it up, creating the landscape of North Island. Northland occupies the tail section, whereas Wellington in the head has been referred to as the eye. In some tellings, the brother’s fishing waka (canoe) becomes Te Waka a Māui, or South Island.
Incidentally, you may see the country referred to as Aotearoa New Zealand. Aotearoa (popularly “land of the long white cloud”) was the original Māori name for North Island (officially Te Ika-a-Māui since 2013), but in modernity has come to refer to the collection of islands. In 2013 South Island was officially named Te Waipounamu, meaning “the water(s) of greenstone”.
🤔 Curiosity
Whichever part of the world you’re in, there are pre-Christmas preparations to make for all who celebrate. For S this included translocating the German tradition of baking Plätzchen:
The festive period is also of course about spending time with family and friends. In the run-up we were joined by friends from “across the ditch” (Australia) to see a few local sights. This included Whangārei Quarry Gardens, where volunteers have created a sub-tropical oasis in the western hills of the city:
However, it wouldn’t be Christmas in New Zealand unless it involved a beach. A de-stressing stroll along the sands at Matapouri was enjoyed under blue skies:
Over the hill from Matapouri is Whale Bay, a long-standing family favourite. Not all in our party could be convinced to enter the chilly waters of the South Pacific; those who did confirmed “It’s alright once you’re in!” but elicited only looks of disbelief:
That same afternoon we drove a very corrugated gravel road to revisit Whananaki South Beach (see here for our previous visit). With passengers in the back the drive helped us diagnose and reduce a number of persisting rattles in the habitation section of our van. A picnic lunch was followed by a beach walk and taking the footbridge across the estuary to source ice cream.
Christmas Eve saw a visit to Kiwi North, Northland’s only nocturnal kiwi house.
Threats to the kiwi
The flightless kiwi, of which there are 5 species, is an endangered national icon. Did you know kiwis have no breastbone, to accomodate the enormous size of their egg? This is why you should never pick up a kiwi if you come across one. It also makes them vulnerable to crushing dog bites. This is a particular problem in Northland; you can book your dog onto “avian awareness and avoidance” training to encourage it to be kiwi safe. Introduced ferrets also kill adult kiwi; chicks are typically dispatched by stoats and cats.
🌲 Rewilding
Christmas Eve soon turned in to Christmas Day, spent with extended family. Boxing Day demanded a walk to compensate for some of the excess calories consumed (New Zealanders have a very sweet national tooth, for those not in the know). Climbing the tsunami evacuation route from Tutukaka’s marina takes you to Landowners Lane on Tutukaka Head, which terminates at the trailhead for a lighthouse on Kukutauwhao Island. Getting to the island involves wading deep water at or close to high tide; this proved a little too adventurous for all but the determined—who got rather damp in the process:
The next day saw us revisit Helena Bay Café for lunch (see here), with an onward journey towards Kerikeri stopping to view Haruru Falls:
Continuing towards Kerikeri we made for the NZMCA campsite. Literally just over the boundary fence is Rainbow Falls, which was popular with swimmers and walkers taking the bush-clad trail leading into town:
The next day we parked up under the shade of a pōhutukawa at Te Ti Beach and walked the short distance into Paihia, Bay of Islands, which was swollen with summer tourists:
We took a ferry across the Bay to Russell, which was also humming with people seeking food and souvenirs:
From the waterfront at Russell it’s only a short walk over the hill to the opposite coast, where swimmers and sunbathers were enjoying Long Beach:
Following a return ferry it was time to return to home base to prepare for the next trip—which we would be taking without Curiosity.
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