If you read our log about Christmas in the tail of the fish, you’ll be in the know as to why Wellington is referred to as the eye. Wellington is the nation’s pocket-sized capital, but what it lacks in population it makes up for in vibe, culture, diversity and attitude. We flew down with friends from Australia to see in the New Year from Wellington, and to take in a few of the city’s attractions. We lived here for a year during 2006–07 and although we had revisited since, this time we got to introduce others to our favourite city and to see it with new eyes in the process.
Coordinates
I’ll pass on that
Making use of the day pass available for the Wellington public transport system (Metlink) allowed us to criss-cross the city by bus on a budget, using it like a hop-on, hop-off service. You can buy a ticket on the bus using cash. A national contactless electronic travel pass is anticipated, but the current alternative is a Snapper card.
Tips and tricks
Wellington’s central business district includes the intersecting Willis Street and Lambton Quay. The latter hosts the bottom-end hub for the Cable Car, which climbs Kelburn Hill to a terminus at the Botanic Gardens. First turn around for views back over the city, then find a path to start exploring. Also on the grounds is the Space Place, which runs planetarium movies (we can recommend the one on Polynesian voyaging using astronavigation).
New Year’s Eve meant a visit to the City to Sea Bridge on the waterfront, in time for the early (children’s) fireworks at 2130h. Although there was a child in our party, the adults were just as grateful for the early display, launched from a barge on the harbour. While the flashes and bangs were expected, an illuminated sax-playing plant creature caught us all by surprise.
Then it was morning after the night before—as is the case most mornings. Although in this case, Happy New Year! Following an old German tradition the CD CREW shared some sauerkraut on New Year’s Day, thus ensuring wealth and good luck for the incoming year. B felt happy that he got away with a nibble, whereas S was happy that this fermented cabbage is readily available and even regarded as a superfood.
On New Year’s Day we made the first of several visits to Te Papa Tongarewa, one of the world’s best museums. As elsewhere what is on display does vary, but still present since our previous visit was the outstanding Gallipoli stories exhibit. The larger-than-life dioramas were created with the help of Weta Workshop, famed for their work on the Lord of the Rings films and more. The detail is simply astounding—as is the absurdity of the Gallipoli campaign that led to so much loss of life during the First World War.
No less despairing is an easily-overlooked display showing how much deforestation has taken place during the course of New Zealand’s brief historic period.
Despairing over deforestation
What a true paradise pre-historic NZ would have been, before the first humans arrived. At that time around 85% of the land area was forested, with about 5% grassland (the rest being wetlands and mountains). Early settlers from Polynesia cleared forests by torching it, beginning around 1200-1400. When settlers from Europe arrived in numbers around 1840, forest cover had already been reduced by some 30%. This second wave of colonisation led to a further 30% reduction, with only 25% indigenous forest cover remaining today. Now 51% of the cover is introduced grassland to support agriculture.
🌲 Rewilding
It’s not merely a story of loss at Te Papa though, as there is much to celebrate in what New Zealand still has left and in the uniqueness of its native flora and fauna.
A story of two halves
About half of New Zealand’s flora and fauna are found nowhere else, which is attributed to prolonged isolation of the islands. As Te Papa put it “The longer you live here, the weirder you get!“
Furthermore, around half of NZ’s native trees have separate male (pollen producing) and female (fruit producing) individuals—a higher proportion than found elsewhere on Earth.
🌲 Rewilding
It’s possible to join a free tour of the Beehive, as the Executive Wing of the New Zealand Parliament Buildings is known. These were booked out during our visit, however, so we had to make do with a walk around the grounds.
While the history of the Treaty of Waitangi (New Zealand’s founding document) is on display at Te Papa, it is in front of the Beehive where historic grievances are voiced.
The Treaty of Waitangi
The three articles in the English version (1) require Māori rangatira (chiefs) cede sovereignty to the British Crown; (2) give the Crown exclusive rights to buy land Māori wish to sell, who are guaranteed rights of ownership of their lands, forests, fisheries and other possessions in return; and (3) Māori receive the rights and privileges of British subjects.
However, differences marred the Māori text in terms of literal translation and cultural meaning. Misunderstandings led to grievances, and in 1975 the Waitangi Tribunal was established to investigate Māori claims about alleged Crown breaches of the Treaty. The Tribunal aims to reference the “spirit” of the Treaty; it falls to the Office of Treaty Settlements to negotiate resolution.
For more information, see The Treaty in brief, here.
🤔 Curiosity
Away from politics, and away from the hustle and bustle of the city yet within its urban bounds, Zealandia harks back to a simpler time. This eco-sanctuary is notable for being enclosed by a predator-proof fence, the purpose of which is to protect at-risk birds and reptiles in the valley from human and other mammalian pests. Visitors can view tuatara (see below), listen to tūī song as they overfly the dam (at one point there were only 22 left in Wellington; now they thrive), and observe the antics of the kākā (a boisterous parrot).
Tuatara: a “living dinosaur”
The tuatara (Sphenodon punctatus), last of it’s ancient kind, is a native reptile that grows up to half a metre in length and is characterised by two rows of teeth in its upper jaw (one on the lower jaw), vertical pupils, mottled greenish-brown and grey colouration, and a spiny crest that is more pronounced in males. They also have a “third eye”, thought to be a light sensor, and live to an average 60 years; related species died out 60 million years ago. Zealandia protects a number of these taonga (treasures) on the mainland, which can be seen at close range sunbathing near their burrows in the viewing area.
🌲 Rewilding
It’s a lot to think about, all this war, deforestation, extinction and human grievance. The solution is to visit Oriental Bay, where (on a good day) a stroll along Oriental Parade provides therapeutic people-watching and ice cream-eating opportunities. You may even brave the chilly harbour waters—providing there have been no recent sewage discharges. Yes, in the interest of full disclosure, that is sadly a problem here too.
After the beach, but hopefully before sunburn, you may need to fill your belly or quench your thirst. Wellington is full of eateries and watering holes. Craft beers, sours and hard seltzers are particularly fashionable. Some breweries will offer “flights” to enable you to try different brews before settling on a favourite. There seem to be no limitations to the flights of fancy names and ingredients. Feijoa and chilli, anyone?
It’s dead Jim!
Beware if you’re expecting a wide choice of dining out options in Wellington over Christmas/ New Year. Many Wellingtonians tend to leave the city for the festive period. Matters were made worse in 2022–23 by Covid, with many services (hotels, buses, eateries, etc.) either unable to open or operating understaffed. A hotel apartment (with kitchenette) would permit catering to your own requirements—providing supermarket food will cut it for you.
Tips and tricks
Speaking of choice—or lack thereof—women were given the vote in New Zealand in 1893, 130 years ago. A current exhibition in the Von Kohorn Room of the fascinating Wellington Museum (once the boardroom of the powerful Wellington Harbour Board) opposes the historic pictures of all-male dignitaries with only the silhouettes of female leaders and role-models from all kinds of background and achievements. Furthermore, the obfuscation indicates that even today women’s stories are less visible—certainly not another story of two halves (see above).
Our time (and luck with the weather) had run out, and we left Wellington confident we would return soon. It’s always a pleasure.
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