It had been 17 years since we last hiked the unique landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Although we had begun to explore to the northeast of Lake Taupō, that could wait. A weather window meant we broke off to enter Tongariro National Park and re-experience the world-famous alpine crossing.
Coordinates
There’s an interesting story describing how the mountainous lands of the Central Plateau were shaped:
Battle of the mountains.
🤔 Curiosity
Māori legends attempt to make sense of how the landscape presents itself to observers. Hence, stories are told about how the land around Lake Taupō was shaped during the battle of the mountains. Different tribal traditions emphasise different aspects of the story, but they agree that a battle occurred between the great warrior-mountains of Taranaki, Tongariro, Tauhara and Pūtauaki. The were all trying to impress a beautiful maiden mountain called Pīhanga. The battle lasted a long time and eventually Tongariro emerged victorious. The other mountains decided to leave Tongariro’s land, but they had only one night to travel, as the rising sun would fix them into position in the morning. Tauhara kept looking back to Pīhanga and moved very slowly, so he only reached the other side of Lake Taupō. Pūtauaki went northeast and ended up near Kawerau. Taranaki travelled west, carving the path of the Whanganui River as he went. He is still looking back, hoping for a return to avenge his defeat and win Pīhanga. In the tradition of the Ngāti Maniapoto iwi, Tongariro and Pīhanga have snow, rain and the winds as descendants. Another iwi tells of more mountains being involved in the battle, likewise moving away in defeat and still standing today where the first morning light caught them.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is now delivered in partnership between DOC and the Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro iwi, and thus requires pre-booking (currently $0). Due to new parking restrictions, walkers are steered to book a park and ride/ transfer service (two adults cost us $NZ126). Don’t despair if it’s cloudy at the Mangatepopo Road trailhead (first photo); the clouds may lift and offer a glimpse of Mt Ruapehu (second photo). A 600m detour to Soda Springs can be skipped (third photo); you don’t really see anything more by getting closer. The so-called “Devil’s Staircase” used to be a four-limb scramble; it’s now a considerably easier path (final photo).
Tongariro National Park holds dual World Heritage status for its natural and cultural value: its summits and alpine lakes are tapu—so no more climbing to Mt Ngāuruhoe’s red rim (first photo). Cross the moonscape of South Crater at 1,659m (second photo); there’s a sidestep to see a (dried) lake on the righthand side of the path (third photo). Another climb follows, and soon you’ll get a first look at the landscape beyond the ridge line (final photo).
Just a little more climbing, with good views looking back along ridge and beyond to “Mt Doom” of the Lord of the Rings films (first photo). The impressive Red Crater then comes into view (second and third photos). Still active since first exploding into existence some 10,000 years ago, it’s the high point of the crossing at 1,886m. Across the plain of Central Crater you’ll see the plateau of Tongariro’s North Crater—looking almost as if a peak has been lopped off (final photo)!
The three Emerald Lakes | Ngā Rotopounamu are a mesmerising site to behold from above, making for a popular lunch stop. You can also appreciate them from below—but don’t enter them! The lakes occupy craters formed by steam eruptions in the last 2,000 years. Their distinctive emerald colour is the result of dissolved minerals in the cold and acidic water (they freeze over in winter).
Getting down to the lakes/ continuing with your trek involves scree surfing (first photo); many find this difficult and falls are common. Your goal is Blue Lake | Te Wai-whakaata-o-te-Rangihiroa (“Rangihiroa’s mirror”), named for a Māori explorer from around 1750 (second photo). While passing the lakes you’ll observe fumaroles—water heated by hot rocks causes venting of steam (third photo). Then it’s a case of crossing Central Crater, which is actually a drainage basin (final photo).
Arguably the best views in the park can be had as you look back from the edge of Blue Lake. You’ll see alignment of Red Crater with the summit of Ngāuruhoe behind it (first photo). If conditions are clear you’ll also see Ruapehu further in the distance (second photo). The second half of the walk feels longer, despite views over Lakes Taupō and Rotoaira (third photo) and of the steaming Ketetahi Hot Springs (final photo).
The last 3km down to the short-stay car park are in the shade of bush, which may be welcome on a sunny day—as you are otherwise exposed all day. The park and ride car park is however a bit further on, so the full walk back to our van was 22km over 6.5h:
We noted a number of plants on the Crossing. Calluna vulgaris | common heather was flowering en mass as we began our trek from the Mangatepopo Road end (first photo); it’s an unwanted organism in NZ! Brachyglottis bidwillii, with a faux frosted leaf look, is however endemic (second photo). Lotus pedunculatus | greater bird’s-foot-trefoil is native to Europe (third photo). Endemic Podocarpus nivalis | snow totara was also present, with green seeds embedded in a red fruit (final photo).
Euphrasia cuneata | North Island eyebright were everywhere and a botanical highlight (first photo). Also common was the endemic Raoulia albosericea, with delicate florets (second photo). Not to be outdone, Wahlenbergia albomarginata | NZ harebell contributed a splash of violet (third photo). Geometric perfection could be seen in the form of a Gentianella bellidifolia flower (final photo).
Mount Ruapehu
SH48 in Tongariro National Park links Iwikau Village on the lower slopes of Ruapehu to SH47. A short distance in, Tawhai Falls Walk is only 800m return (first and second photos); fans of the Lord of the Rings films may recognise the set location for the pool where Faramir catches Gollum fishing. Mt Ngāuruhoe flaunted its archetypal cone shape, seen from the road (third photo). The iconic Grand Chateau hotel, 1929–2023, is closed mainly due to seismic risks (final photo).
Ruapehu’s summit was under cloud as we drove up to Iwikau Village/ Whakapapa Skifield (first photo). Despite being in receivership and liquidation, it’s still “business as usual” for Ruapehu Alpine Lifts, so we took their Sky Waka gondola for a little more altitude (second photo). Some patrons come to enjoy high tea with a view at 2,020m (third photo). Others step out back to take up a trail, or simply admire the rocks (final photo).
Silica Rapids can be reached from a car park on Bruce Road; these small rapids on Waikare Stream are only 1.6km in (if not doing the full loop walk). Rain/ snow melt seeps deep underground where it’s heated and picks up gas from magma. The hot gassy water rises, absorbing minerals along the way, before emerging from a spring further up the valley. As the gas dissipates in the stream, the minerals become less soluble, so a creamy white alumino-silicate deposit is laid on the rocky bed.
Taranaki Falls can be viewed during a 6km/ 2h loop track from near the Visitor Centre, with the 20m falls on Wairere Stream at its apex—seen here from lower track (first photo). The upper track allows viewing the falls as they cascade over the edge of a 15,000 year-old lava flow (second photo). Also noted on the upper track were Sigaus piliferus | North Island alpine grasshopper, which is endemic (third photo) and a natural oil seep, running down an earthen bank (final photo).
Getting to the Tama Lakes involves taking an extension from Taranaki Falls. The track climbs gently into the saddle between Mts Ngāuruhoe and Ruapehu. A pair of cold freshwater lakes fill 10,000 year-old explosion craters, set in a volcanic debris field. At the lower lake those eruptions punched through 275,000 year-old lavas. Lower Tama is at 1,240m (first and second photos, with Mt Ruapehu); Upper Tama is at 1,440m (third and fourth photos, with Mt Ngāuruhoe).
Combined with the Falls loop, this made for a 19km/ 5h hike:
These walks in Tongariro National Park exposed us to more alpine botanicals. These included the native Gaultheria depressa | mountain snowberry—we also saw the white variety (first photo); endemic Pimelea buxifolia (second photo); endemic Olearia nummulariifolia | sticky daisybush (third photo); and native Leptospermum scoparium | mānuka (final photo). These specimens were all seen on Silica Falls Track.
But that wasn’t the end of it! We identified the native Gleichenia alpina | alpine tangle fern (first photo) and endemic Sticherus cunninghamii | umbrella fern | waekura (second photo), both seen on Silica Falls Track. Also, endemic Veronica tetragona (third photo) and native Drosera spatulata | rosy sundew—a carnivore that uses sticky droplets on its spoon-shape leaves to catch insects (final photo), both seen on Tama Lakes Track.
Tūrangi
At Te Porere Redoubt cross the upper reaches of the Whanganui River (first photo) to access the Upper and Lower Redoubts of Te Kooti (second photo). Here in 1869 was one of last major Māori engagements with Crown forces during the NZ Wars. Arrested and sentenced as a spy without trial, Te Kooti escaped captivity and engaged in guerrilla warfare. Followers faced rifles and cannon from the (reconstructed) earthworks; 41 people died, but Te Kooti himself escaped.
Lake Rotopounamu Track is a 6km/ 1.5h loop. At 713m, the lake sits below Pīhanga at 1,326m, the woman-peak (see AI illustration) at the centre of a battle between Central Plateau volcanos, who was won by Tongariro (as per blue box above). Although inclement weather hid her face (hence the AI rendition!), we did see the lakeshore (second photo). Along the track were endemic Hymenophyllum nephrophyllum | kidney fern | raurenga (third photo) and native Dawsonia superba | giant moss | pāhau kākāpo—the world’s tallest moss, up to 50–60cm (final photo).
Climbed too many volcanoes? Tokaanu Thermal Walk at the southern end of Lake Taupō is short and free, with several small hydrothermal and mud pools (first and second photos). Oncorhynchus mykiss | rainbow trout swim in the Tokaanu Stream (third photo) as you cross the bridge to the Hot Pool Complex. Here, a bling-free private mineral bath is only $14pp for 25min (final photo); you then have unrestricted use of the heated public pool. What’s not to like?
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing remains the day walk we’d recommend to any visitor to NZ who has a reasonable level of fitness. Now, back to Taupō…
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